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Solid Antique Parquet Blocks
The elegance of a traditional parquet or herringbone floor that has to be seen to be fully appreciated
Solid Antique Parquet Blocks
Our solid antique parquet blocks will help you achieve a floor that will be remarked upon for years to come.
Blocks are supplied unfinished after having gone through a unique distressing process to give a stunning ‘aged’ and uneven appearance. Choose from our range of bespoke colours to achieve your ideal finish.
Please note antique and distressed flooring is made to have an aged appearance; the flooring gets damaged in this process which can cause splintering. The fitting of this wood may require some additional work such as planing of tongues & cleaning of grooves to facilitate the laying process.
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01252 520 520
PLEASE NOTE WHEN ORDERING SAMPLES, THAT WOOD IS A NATURAL PRODUCT WITH VARIATIONS IN GRAIN, SAP CONTENT, COLOUR TONE AND TEXTURE. SAMPLES SHOULD ONLY BE TAKEN AS A GUIDE TO THE FINAL PRODUCT.
SizE & Price
8% +/- 2%
* Please note, all prices are excluding VAT and delivery
FREQUently asked questions
- Regularly sweep and vacuum the floor to remove abrasive grit and prevent dust build-up (make sure to use hardwood flooring attachments on the vacuum cleaner)
- Use protective pads or rubber castors under wheels and furniture feet
- Use barrier mats inside of all external doorways, to help trap dirt, grit and abrasives
- Never leave any liquids sitting on the floor for any period of time – mop any spillages up straight away
- Mops! Many people think you can’t use a mop on wooden flooring, and you must dry-wipe it with a cloth, or just dust it. The truth is in fact the opposite! You should always use a mop (wrung out so it is no longer dripping) and a bucket with warm water, and most importantly, use a floor cleaning solution that is designed for oiled wooden flooring. This will help protect the finish, will not damage or dull the oil, and most importantly, it will clean the floor! Wood is no different than any other floor – it still needs cleaning to prevent bacteria and dirt from building up. We recommend a cleaning product brand called Bona, and we definitely say no to steam mopping, as it forces moisture into the wood.
- Next, think of the floor as a car. It needs to be cared for and maintained to ensure it will stay looking beautiful for generations. You need to top up the oil in a car, and you need to do the same for a wooden floor. Over the years, people will walk over the planks, drag furniture, it will get used exactly as a floor should be. And that’s fine, but of course the top layer of Hardwax oil will eventually wear down. So, depending on the traffic, most areas will need a good clean after three/four years, and then a coat of Hardwax oil worked back into the wood. It is very simple to do, with no need for machinery and the floor can be walked on again after 4-6 hours. So, do it before bed, go to sleep, wake up, and voila! A lovely re-coated floor that is now protected again for a few years.
- Keep the room temperature between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius and the relative humidity between 45 and 60%. This will ensure the flooring is kept at a temperature ideal for wooden flooring, and it will minimise the risk of swelling, expansion or creaking.
- Lastly, you do not need to walk on eggshells – if you manage to scratch or dent the floor, it can be repaired with some TLC and Hardwax Oil.
- Love your floor <3
You would need to use a 20mm floor if the new planks will be nailed directly to exposed joists. If you have a concrete or screed sub-floor, existing flooring such as wood or tiles, it means there is already a structurally sound floor already down, so you can use the 16mm version. The good news is, this is the cheaper way!
The 20mm flooring has a 6mm solid wood layer, the 16mm has a 4mm layer, so you do get an extra 2mm with a 20mm plank. But in a normal home, or even in most commercial areas, the solid wood layer will last a lifetime, and can still be sanded down (if necessary) and refinished. Most clients will always choose a 16mm floor, it is cheaper, works well with underfloor heating systems, and it still boasts a good chunk of solid wood!
There really is no reason to have one or the other, it is simply down to what you like. Prime AB grade arguably looks slightly more modern, as it has a cleaner and more even appearance. But Rustic grade does not necessarily look ‘old’ – it simply has more knots and grain variation; natural looking! Our Antique range is another story – it is distressed by hand and is made to look old – so many choices!
The majority of our clients opt for a Rustic grade, simply because it is the most natural looking. Prime AB can actually look a bit too clean, with less natural variation giving a look that can be a bit plain. No grade is longer-lasting or wears better than the other either, so the choice is yours 🙂
So, your flooring is looking a bit worn and tired, should you get it sanded right back down to the bare wood, and refinish it? The answer is almost certainly no. If the flooring is looking lacklustre and tired, normally all that has happened is that the top layer of Hardwax Oil has worn away with the years of feet, paws and general life! Give the floor a really good clean using a Bona (or similar) floor cleaning solution, let it air dry, then work some more Hardwax Oil into the planks, remembering to give it a stir first. The best thing to use is either a rag or a paint pad (the ones with a handle work best). Wipe the oil in the direction of the grain following the length of the plank. Do not rub it, or use circular motions, as this can cause an uneven appearance during drying.
If some areas are very worn, and you think they may benefit from a bit of a rub down, you can use a very light grit sandpaper (120) to gently work some of the remaining finish and ground-in dirt off, before hoovering, cleaning and then finally re-oiling. And don’t forget, if you’re not sure about the condition of your flooring, and would like some advice, feel free to send a photo of the area to [email protected] and we’ll be more than happy to help!