Factory Special Flooring

• Regularly sweep and vacuum the floor to remove abrasive grit and prevent dust build-up (make sure to use hardwood flooring attachments on the vacuum cleaner)
• Use protective pads or rubber castors under wheels and furniture feet
• Use barrier mats inside of all external doorways, to help trap dirt, grit and abrasives
• Never leave any liquids sitting on the floor for any period of time – mop any spillages up straight away
• Mops! Many people think you can’t use a mop on wooden flooring, and you must dry-wipe it with a cloth, or just dust it. The truth is in fact the opposite! You should always use a mop (wrung out so it is no longer dripping) and a bucket with warm water, and most importantly, use a floor cleaning solution that is designed for oiled wooden flooring. This will help protect the finish, will not damage or dull the oil, and most importantly, it will clean the floor! Wood is no different than any other floor – it still needs cleaning to prevent bacteria and dirt from building up. We recommend a cleaning product brand called Bona, and we definitely say no to steam mopping, as it forces moisture into the wood.
• Next, think of the floor as a car. It needs to be cared for and maintained to ensure it will stay looking beautiful for generations. You need to top up the oil in a car, and you need to do the same for a wooden floor. Over the years, people will walk over the planks, drag furniture, it will get used exactly as a floor should be. And that’s fine, but of course the top layer of Hardwax oil will eventually wear down. So, depending on the traffic, most areas will need a good clean after three/four years, and then a coat of Hardwax oil worked back into the wood. It is very simple to do, with no need for machinery and the floor can be walked on again after 4-6 hours. So, do it before bed, go to sleep, wake up, and voila! A lovely re-coated floor that is now protected again for a few years.
• Keep the room temperature between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius and the relative humidity between 45 and 60%. This will ensure the flooring is kept at a temperature ideal for wooden flooring, and it will minimise the risk of swelling, expansion or creaking.
• Lastly, you do not need to walk on eggshells – if you manage to scratch or dent the floor, it can be repaired with some TLC and Hardwax Oil.
• Love your floor <3

You would need to use a 20mm floor if the new planks will be nailed directly to exposed joists. If you have a concrete or screed sub-floor, existing flooring such as wood or tiles, it means there is already a structurally sound floor already down, so you can use the 15mm version. The good news is, this is the cheaper way!

The 20mm flooring has a 4mm solid wood layer as does the 15mm. In a normal home, or even in most commercial areas, the solid wood layer will last a lifetime, and can still be sanded down (if necessary) and refinished. Most clients will always choose a 15mm floor, it is cheaper, works well with underfloor heating systems, and it still boasts a good chunk of solid wood!